Laduree vs. Dalloyau: The Judgement Begins

Readers who breathlessly followed my account of the great macaron baking bash will already be aware that there has been a good deal of debate chez Fractured Amy about the characteristics of the ideal macaron and the identity of the Parisian patisserie that produces the most superior specimen. Should macarons be thin and crispy, as typified by those from the great Laduree - or igloo-like and marshmallowy, as per noble Dalloyau? The judgement has been somewhat hampered by the fact that, having no examples in the kitchen, the discussion heretofore has been of the largely hypothetical sort, based upon dim memory and incomplete information.

Sir, following these events from Japan, vowed to take action and settle the dispute. Already tasked with purchasing a boite prestige from Laduree as payment for gallivanting around Tokyo without me, he took it upon himself to pay an additional visit to Dalloyau so that a comparative tasting might be arranged upon his return Stateside. That he was forced to spend his last day in the city frequenting institutions not normally on his itinerary, as well as smuggle home six gateaux in his hand luggage, was a sacrifice that did not go unnoticed by me. I have asserted before the Sir is a stirling fellow - but this time, he really outdid himself.

We conducted our comparison along several metrics, so that no factor contributing to macaron perfection would be ignored. The tasting team for this exercise consisted of Sir and myself. Toad, sadly, was unavailable (having gone home a week ago) and the Kid Squid does not care for macarons. We were in some haste to conduct our study, since the Laduree specimens had already exceeded their 'best by' date.

The Sample
Three macarons each were purchased from Laduree and Dalloyau. Sir couldn't remember the flavors exactly, but they appear to be lemon, pistachio, and praline (Laduree) and orange, yuzu, and almond (Dalloyau).

The Procurement Experience
Sir reported that Laduree (located in the splendid Mitsukoshi department store in Ginza) was frighteningly girly and tooth-achingly twee. Not being a tiny Japanese lady in a Chanel suit, he felt rather out of place galumphing around in his oversized gaijin shoes. Branches of Dalloyau, on the other hand, may be found in several of the more prestigious railway stations around the city, allowing for both ease of access and the relieved feeling that one is not trespassing on a private sanctuary for Exquisite Ladies who Lunch. Advantage Dalloyau.

The Packaging
Laduree is famous for its lovely lime green boxes with matching ribbon. Even if one only buys three macarons, one still gets the full treatment. Indeed, one also receives two little freezer packs, lovingly inscribed with Laduree's beautiful flowing logo. These were still cool to the touch after Sir's fifteen hours in the air, which I call above and beyond. By comparison, Dalloyau's rather pedestrian white paper bag was a disappointment, even allowing for the inevitable crushing in steerage. Advantage, Laduree.

Appearance
All the macarons arrived in fairly good condition, making an aesthetic comparison possible. The lemon (Laduree) and orange (Dalloyau) varieties were chosen as appropriate subjects, both because they were similar in concept and had fared the best in transit. Each macaron measured roughly 1.75 inches in diameter, although the Dalloyau specimen was slightly larger. Viewed from above, the difference in finish was marked. The lemon macaron had a silky sheen - unblemished, but rather flat - whereas the good people at Dalloyau had burnished their offering with some sort of food powder or coloring to give it depth and interest. Advantage, Dalloyau.



Macarons from Dalloyau (left) and Laduree (right)

When viewed from the side, the difference between the two specimens was even more pronounced. As predicted, the Laduree meringues were thin and flat, with the entire macaron reaching a height of 0.75 inches. The example from Dalloyau was rounded and plump, towering to just over 1.25 inches. Although I've remarked before that this is a matter of personal taste, this is my blog and I'm going to say what I think, dammit. Advantage, Dalloyau.

Again, the Dalloyau macaron is on the left

So far, Dalloyau-3; Laduree-1.

Next up: a discussion of texture, taste, and The Final Verdict!