Pumpkin: Ratios but No Pi

I wrote previously about how, inspired by a new concept of high-ratio cakes and a shiny box of King Arthur Gluten-Free Multi-Purpose Flour, I tested my theory that - just by examining ingredient weights - one can immediately judge whether a recipe will be amenable to gluten-freedom without all that tedious xanthan gum business. I decided to try Jeff Potter's Pumpkin Cake recipe as a first proof, since of the total 920 g of ingredients, only about 20g is gluten. I reasoned it would hardly be missed!

Since the weight of water is important to the ratio, I was a bit concerned about the presence of pumpkin (a notoriously damp substance, after all) in the recipe. Jeff conveniently relates that 245 g of pumpkin contains 220 g of water and then even more helpfully points out that such information is available to the non-paying public courtesy of the USDA National Nutrient Database. Isn't that endearing? I foresee many happy hours at my computer with a cup of Earl Grey, researching ingredients to my heart's content.

Anyway: back to business. I was encouraged by the new flour when I opened the box: it was fine and pale, not too clumpy, and smelled fresh and flour-like (that shouldn't be too much to ask, but alas - I have found it to be so). There was no hint of metallicism when I tasted some from my finger. Cautious but hopeful, I prepared the cake batter. Jeff's instructions are economical as good science tends to be, so I applied a little of my own knowledge to the procedure (see below). The resulting mixture was delightfully thick, creamy and smooth - and all without so much as a hint of added xanthan gum! It also tasted wonderful when I licked the bowl.

I was pretty sure I was in good shape, but you never know about these things, do you? I popped the pan in the oven and waited expectantly. Soon, the house began to smell like a cake was baking! It was very exciting. After 40 minutes (Jeff's recipe said 20, but I suspect his pan was a different size from mine) I had something that looked suspiciously like a well-risen, nicely-set sponge.

While it was cooling on its rack, Sir and I went for a long healthy woodland walk in anticipation of the calories to come. It was bitterly cold and we reasoned we'd used up sufficient energy after about an hour. Coincidentally, this was the exact amount of elapsed time necessary for the cake's core temperature to drop to an invitingly warm thermal state. I turned it out and noted with great contentment that it stuck to the pan not at all.

A few quick slices and the job was done.

Now, loyal readers know I am as critical of my own creations as anybody on the planet - probably more so. Many of my experiments have required several attempts before I could report a successful outcome. I am keen that my gluten-free cooking please everybody - and would rather guests not know that they are eating anything unusual. So you should all know I am not being frivolous or undiscerning when I say this cake was virtually perfect. It was light and airy (Sir called it 'ethereal') like the very best sponges are. The crumb was almost imperceptibly fine. It was moist and flavorful and downright delicious. Sighs of contentment and relief were heard throughout the kitchen. Honestly, the cake was that damn excellent.

A few lessons were learned from this experience. Firstly, my suspicion that the high-ratio cake model would prove applicable to gluten-free baking was confirmed. For this recipe, I did a straight one-to-one substitution of g/f flour for all purpose and the result was peerless. Now that I have a formula (courtesy of Cooking for Geeks), it will be a relatively simple matter to go through my cookbooks to see which recipes will lend themselves to gluten-freedom without the addition of unwanted substances such as xanthan gum.

In addition, I was thrilled to discover that King Arthur Flour make a gluten-free blend I can use without fear of unpleasant flavors or side effects. In gratitude, I will be buying shares in the company at the earliest available opportunity. 

Jeff Potter's Pumpkin Cake (gluten-free version)

• 245 g pumpkin puree
• 200 g sugar
• 160 g canola oil
• 2 large eggs (about 120 g)
• 180 g g/f baking flour (I recommend KAGFMPF wholeheartedly and without reservation)
• 40 g raisins (I left these out, since I have an aversion to raisins in my baked goods)
• 2 tsp cinnamon (I also added 0.5 tsp. ground ginger and several grates of nutmeg, which seemed appropriate. I will up the ginger to a full teaspoon next time I make the cake)
• 1 tsp baking powder
• 1/2 tsp baking soda
• 1/2 tsp salt
• 1/2 tsp vanilla extract

Jeff's instructions are brief and to-the-point. This is my interpretation of his procedure. Preheat your oven to 350 deg. F. Butter a 9-inch cake pan (I used a round one). Line the bottom with silicon parchment paper and butter that too.  Sift together the flour, sugar, spices, salt, baking powder and baking soda into a bowl. In a big measuring cup, pour yourself the required amount of canola oil; add the pumpkin, eggs and vanilla and mix it together. Dump that into the dry ingredients and give it a few whirls with your electric handmixer.

Pour it into your prepared pan and bake for 40-45 minutes, or until the cake is done. Eat it while still a little bit warm, if possible. I served it with whipped cream (enriched with vanilla and a bit of powdered sugar) and it was a triumph.