In Praise of Pots and Pans: First Canto

As the year draws to a close, I find myself contemplating my first three-and-a-half months of gluten freedom and the many cooking and eating adventures thereof. Whether triumph or disaster, success or failure, my favorite pots and pans have stood by me and been my constant companions through thick and thin. Some rather neglected items have experienced new-found life as my gluten-free methods evolve whilst others have been daily companions for years. Over the past fifteen weeks all have proved their worth repeatedly and unwaveringly through countless culinary exploits.

The time has come to pay tribute to the dependable tools without which many experiments would not have been possible, much less pleasurable. Without further ado, I present my hall of fame.

Copper saute pan

• Characteristics. Thirteen inches wide and three inches deep with a lid and rounded base (copper cladding over stainless steel).
• Origin. Purchased several years ago at Crate and Barrel with funds from my copper pot account, seeded as a Christmas present by DMR.
• Uses. My favorite pan for things that need slow cooking over low heat, including fruit compote, risotto, curries (when I make them myself), and braises. This is the pan I use almost every day.

Straight-sided frying pan

• Characteristics. Twelve inches wide and three inches deep with lid (copper core sandwiched in aluminum and stainless steel).
• Origin. Given to me almost twenty-five years ago as part of my first cookware set. Probably purchased at Macy's.
• Uses. Excellent for proteins started on the stovetop and finished in the oven. Can comfortably hold a sirloin steak that will feed four hungry people; three pounds of fish fillets; or a good-sized pork loin. Only my copper saute pan is used more often.

Chef's Pan

• Characteristics. Three-quart saucier (stainless steel) with rounded bottom and glass lid.
• Origin. Purchased shortly after our first return from Japan fifteen years ago, following several unsuccessful electric rice-cooker tests in Colorado (where I blamed the altitude for my utter inability to prepare edible rice).
• Uses. The only pan in which I ever, ever cook rice but also handy for choux pastry and other things one doesn't want scorching in corners.

Steamer

• Characteristics. Huge colander/steamer over a five-quart stewing pot (anodized aluminum) with glass lid.
• Origin. Came as a freebie with my Calphalon pot rack, which was purchased during the kitchen renovations four years ago to provide hanging capability when we tore out the (otherwise useless) island previously employed for cookware storage.
• Uses. I'm steaming a lot these days - both fiber-rich vegetables like broccoli and cauliflower and exotic grains like quinoa. The colander is useful for draining potatoes, parsnips, and stocks.

Spaghetti Pots

• Characteristics. The large one holds ten quarts, the small one eight.
• Origin. The large one was purchased at my local restaurant supply store, while the small one came with the above-mentioned Macy's cookware set.
• Uses. In olden times, these pots were used for pasta (and hopefully will be again, one day) but they are also invaluable when making stock and caramels.

Cheesecloth

• Characteristics. Roughly 36 x 36 inches.
• Origin. I have had this piece of cheesecloth since time immemorial. I have to be careful when using it, as it is somewhat frayed at the edges and developing holes in places
• Uses. Fantastic for lining the colander and straining anything that might otherwise go through, like stock or poaching fat. Also useful for steaming tiny little grains (ditto).

And last but not least, my beautiful Wolf cooker, without which none of this would be possible.

Thank you all for your steadfast help and support during these difficult times. Your loyalty will not be forgotten.

Next up: I pay homage to my favorite baking paraphernalia