While waiting for my lobster stock to reduce (having already sectioned the duck for tomorrow's confit project) I was casting around for something to occupy a spare hour in the kitchen and remembered the lone remaining box of gluten-free cake mix that I'd purchased on my Whole Foods expedition some while back. Loyal readers will understand why I did not have high hopes for this product, since my previous experiences with prepared g/f conveniences have left me shaken and demoralized. The Pancake Pileup, Bread of Doom, and Chocolate Panic were three episodes in my life I would prefer to forget, quite honestly. But, waste not want not - I had one more box in the pantry and I was determined to give it a try.
The rather lovely and discreet yellow packaging promised to yield one gluten-free golden lemon cake. I scanned the list of ingredients: organic evaporated cane juice, white rice flour, Italian chestnut flour, tapioca flour, buttermilk, lemon and other natural flavors, baking powder, maltodextrin, salt, xanthan gum, and baking soda. I was encouraged by several factors: the flours in the mix were the ones I have discovered work best in my own baking (I do not know why some manufacturers insist on using exotic things like chickpea and amaranth flour, as I think they lend a metallic aftertaste to the proceedings); the presence of chestnut flour, which sounded intriguing and gourmet - rather like a powdered Mont Blanc; and xanthan gum's presence way, way down at the end of the list. There were no strange added substances like vinegar or concealing flavours such as cayenne. The mix, in short, appeared to be honest and straightforward. A sample from my index finger confirmed this suspicion - a nice floury taste and texture, with a definite - but not overwhelming - citrus tang.
The method called for by the destructions was reassuringly cake-like. The box contained two envelopes: the sugar in one, and everything else in another. Good start! I creamed the sugar (sorry, evaporated cane juice) together with some butter supplied by me; beat in a couple of eggs; then added the flour mixture and water to make a thick batter. It tasted delicious straight off the spoon and I was encouraged to the point of telling the rest of the family they might expect something sweet in an hour or so. There was much rejoicing.
What can I say about this cake? It was moist and delicious, lemony but not excessively so. The chestnut flour provided a natural sweetness together with a pleasing nut-flecked texture and appearance. We considered other serving options and decided some lemon curd would be a welcome addition to the powdered sugar - possibly with some candied zest and whipped cream (or even buttercream!) for special guests.
I was amazed and gratified, after all my trials and tribulations, to have found such a superior box mix and Sir and I agreed we needed, in future, to have some on hand at all times. I went to the website of the company and found it also mills chestnut and almond flours. Eureka! I'd forgotten the chestnut flour in my pantry, which I'd bought during that same trip to Whole Foods. The manufacturer considerately provides several recipes, including (be still my heart) a procedure for chestnut-flour madeleines with no xanthan gum in sight. Now, you all know what trouble madeleines gave me in the early days of the gluten-free catastrophe - this new development is exciting beyond words. Chestnut madeleines will be on the menu as soon as humanly possible (we'll probably make some to leave on the hearth for Santa, actually) as well as almond torte, chestnut-flour polenta, and brownies - all wonderfully gluten-free and easy as one-two-three.
My delight at having a fresh line of gluten-free enquiry should not be underestimated. In gratitude, I would like to extend my heartfelt thanks and kudos to the good people at Dowd & Rogers in sunny Park City, Utah.
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